Mt. Pumori Expedition
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I visited Nepal in September 2006 for the purpose of trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary area. I was introduced to Clan Treks and Bishwa Chapagain by a mutual friend from the United Kingdom.

The level of service I received from Clan Treks was second to none, in fact a close friendship has developed as a result of the 10 days we spend trekking in the Sanctuary...

Ian Harries Grantham,
Lincolnshire , UK

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Mt. Pumori Expedition

Mt. Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. This stunning peak is located on the upper Khumbu region of Nepal and its border of Nepal and Tibet. The route follows the Southeast buttress before it traverses to the East Ridge for the remainder of the ascent. It is requiring excellent physical endurance; Mount Pumori offers sections of wild exposure, views of Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest, with technical difficulty worthy of any Himalayan alpinist. Pumori expedition Base camp will be set up at about 5300m.

People climb through the glaciers for approximately 4 hours and reach Camp 1st at 5700m. From Camp 1st, we climb 480m to the face with 40 to 60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2nd at 6200m to a narrow ridge. From camp 2nd, we climb approximately 450 meter through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice-walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3rd will be set up at an altitude of 6, 480m to the ridge. Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit. Pumori is a one of serious expedition peak designed only for experienced climbers. The trip starts from Lukla after flight from Kathmandu and reach to Pumori base camp toward Dudh koshi River

Fact of Mt. Pumori Expedition

Mt. Pumori Expedition Title: Mt. Pumori Expedition
Category: Highly Adventurous
Grade: Strenuous & Difficult
Total Days: 35 Days
Group Size: 4 to 10 Pax
Departure Date: Twice During the Year
Maximum Elevation: 7145m. (22,864ft.)
Transportation: Flights Only
Accommodation: Lodge / Tent (Camping) Trekking
Trekking Hours: Approximately 5 to 7 hrs. Each Day.
Best Season: Sep. to Oct. / April to May
Trip cost: USD 000 (Group Joining Basic)

Day to Day Outline Itinerary

Days Itinerary
Day 01. Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our Representative then transfers to Hotel
Day 02. City sightseeing in Kathmandu, Hotel
Day 03. Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism
Day 04. Kathmandu – Lukla 2804m by flight and trek to Phakding 2622m
Day 05. Phakding – Namche Bazaar 3440m
Day 06. Namche rest for acclimatization, Small Hiking
Day 07. Namche – Thyngboche 3867m
Day 08. Thyngboche – Pheriche 4242m
Day 09. Pheriche – Lobuche 4915m
Day 10. Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp 5300m
Day 11-28. Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m
Day 29. Clean up Pumori Base Camp – Pangboche 3985m
Day 30. Pangboche – Namche Bazaar
Day 31. Namche – Lukla and transfer to Lodge
Day 32. Lukla – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel
Day 33. Free Day in Kathmandu, Hotel
Day 34. Free Day in Kathmandu, Hotel
Day 35. Transfers to airport for your onward journey

Equipments Check List for Mt. Pumori Expedition

The following basic equipments checklist should help you with your packing before you traveling. Please remember that you should always try to keep the weight of your equipments to a minimum while you are in the climbing.

01. Sunglasses with UV protection
02. Sun hat / scarf
03. Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
04. T-shirts
05. Light and expedition weight thermal tops
06. Fleece jacket or pullover
07. Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
08. Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
09. Down jacket
10. Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
11. Small wash towel
12. Underwear’s
13. Hiking shorts
14. Lightweight cotton long pants
15. Fleece or wool pants
16. Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
17. Thin, lightweight inner socks
18. Thick, warm wool hiking socks
19. Hiking boots with spare laces
20. Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
21. Gaiters for hiking in winter to the base camp
22. Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
23. Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
24. Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
25. Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
26. Water bottle
27. Toiletries

Climbing Equipments are require to follows:

  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • 2 x Tape slings
  • 2 x Screwgate Karabiners
  • Descender / Abseil Device
  • Prussic Loops
  • Plastic Mountaineering Boots

Trip Cost Includes

  • One high altitude Climbing Sherpa per-climber to carry all food and gear to the higher camp, also assist the member during climbing and summit attempt.
  • 5 oxygen bottles (3 Lts) per member with Mask and regulator (For use only) "POISK OXYGEN SYSTEM"
  • Common climbing equipment (Required rope, ice bar, ice piton, figure 8 etc.)
  • High altitude tents (North Face or similar quality) for all members and climbing Sherpa
  • Base camp single tent for each member, climbing Sherpa, BC staffs, kitchen staffs and liaison officer.
  • Khumbu Ice fall route fee (Khumbu Ice Fall route will be fixed by SPCC and we pay them in order to use the route which will be maintained by their Sherpa staff through out the expedition period)
  • Schedule flight Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu for member
  • Schedule flight Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu for Liaison Officer
  • Transportation of food supply to base camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porters to base camp)
  • Sagarmatha national park entry fee
  • All Food and fuel for BC and higher camps during expedition
  • Solar panel at BC for light
  • Service of Cook and kitchen boy at base camp and Cook at Camp II.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs, and cooking utensils for base camp.
  • Insurance of climbing Sherpa, cooks, liaison officer and porters
  • Equipment allowance, wages for Government Liaison Officer
  • Seven nights Hotel (Room) in Kathmandu on BB plan in total before and after the expedition.
  • All local Airport transfers

Trip Cost Excludes

  • Entry visa to Nepal This can be obtained at the airport upon arrival
  • Personal insurance cover for accident, evacuation, travel, medical, and lost luggage.
  • International airfare to/from Nepal
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Satellite phone
  • Garbage deposit US $ 3000 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable
  • Bar Bill, Drinks, laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature
  • International flight Departure tax at Kathmandu airport
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment, and commercial filming
  • Applicable customs duty and import licence fees for all expedition goods arriving in Nepal as air / road cargo.

PLEASE NOTE:
We strongly recommend that all expedition climbers have their medical and evacuation coverage arranged in their home country before joining the expedition.

TREKKING / CLIMBING STAFF:

The Guide is in overall charge of your trip and of looking after you. This is the person you should go to with all problems, concerns and questions. All our guides are highly trained in all aspects of trekking, conservation, and high altitude medicine, first aid and emergency procedures. They are professionals selected for their knowledge and passion for Nepal and its peoples. Remember the trekking guides are local citizens and their English may be basic and limited to trek related topics while the city guide have the excellent English with the broad knowledge of the destination involved. Porters transport your luggage – one porter between every two trekkers.

Clan Treks currently train all their Guides in the following courses and your trek leader will be one of the fully train Trek Leader.

  • Intensive Wilderness First Aid KEEP (Kathmandu Environmental Educational Project)
  • Trekking Guide Training - Nepal Government's Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation department of Hotel Management & Tourism Training Centre of Nepal.
  • Eco Trekking Workshop & Adventure Meet TAAN (Trekking Agents Association Of Nepal)
  • English Language
  • Conservation & Biodiversity
  • Rock & Ice Climbing & Mountaineering (optional) Nepal Mountaineering Association

Acceptance of risk:

The Client acknowledges that the nature of the tour is adventurous and may involve a significant amount of personal risk. The Client hereby assumes all such risk and does hereby release the Company from all claims and causes of action arising from any damages of injuries or death resulting from these inherent risks.

INSURANCE:

It is mandatory that all Clients obtain travel insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 50,000 while travelling with the Company and this insurance must cover personal injury, medical expenses, repatriation expenses and emergency evacuation expenses. It is strongly recommended the coverage be extended to include cancellation, curtailment, loss of belongings and all other expenses, which might arise as a result of loss, damage, injury, delay or inconvenience occurring to the Client. The Company shall have no liability for loss, theft of or damage to baggage or personal effects

Climate:

Nepal has a generally temperate climate, however altitude makes distinct variations.

The monsoon sweeps up from India each summer, making mid June to mid September humid and wet. The three other distinct seasons are all suitable for trekking and each has its own advantages. Changing global weather patterns have had their effect on the Himalayan climate making mountain weather notoriously changeable. Always be prepared for a change in conditions and note that if severe or dangerous weather conditions occur your guide’s decision on any course of action is final.

Autumn (September – November): This season offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views.

Winter (December – February): This season is noted for occasional snowfall only at higher elevation. Hence it is ideal for trekking at lower elevations, generally below 3000 meters.

Spring (March – May): Different varieties of wild flowers, specially the rhododendrons make the hillside above 5000 meters a haunting paradise during this season. It is mildly warm at lower elevations and at higher elevation over 4000 meters the mountain views are excellent and temperature is quite moderate.

Summer (June – August): Summer months, continues up to mid September making travel wet and warm. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation. It is recommended to carry insect repellent when trekking during summer months.

Health:

There are no specific health requirements for entry into Nepal. Nevertheless, preventive measures such as a thorough medical check up can save you from unexpected hazards. Nepal does not require any particular inoculation but Cholera, Meningitis, Tetanus and Diphtheria, Typhoid and Gamma Globulin are some of the vaccinations that should be considered for your trip. Since the remote places of Nepal are not supplied with necessities that are essential for modern medical facilities, it is imperative to make a comprehensive First Aid Box consisting of basic drugs and accessories as part of the paraphernalia for your trip. Modern dentistry is unknown in the hills of Nepal, so it is advised to have a checkup before departure from home. Tooth fillings sometimes loosen in cold temperature and at high altitudes, so it is recommended having them checked

Altitude Sickness:

Altitude sickness often known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is particularly an important medical consideration while trekking in Nepal. Altitude sickness means the effect of altitude on those who ascend too rapidly to elevation above 3000 meters. The initial symptoms of AMS are as follows:

  • Nausea, Vomiting
  • Lose of appetite
  • Insomnia/Sleeplessness
  • Persistent Headache
  • Dizziness, Light headiness, Confusion
  • isorientation
  • Weakness, Fatigue, Lassitude, Heavy legs
  • Slight swelling of hand and face
  • Breathlessness and breathing irregularity
  • Reduced urine output

These symptoms are to be taken very seriously. In case of appearance of any of the above symptoms, immediately contact your travel guide.

Client Details:

In order for the Company to confirm and guarantee the Client’s travel arrangements the Client must provide all Client details with their final payment as per the dates specified. Client details include passport number; passport expiry date and medical form (where applicable), full name as it appears in the passport you are travelling with, date of birth and nationality.