Nepal
is a predominantly rural society, and its rich culture and
ethnic diversity are best experienced in its villages. A growing
number of program's enable visitors to stay overnight in private
homes in traditional villages far from the tourist trails.
A few language institutes and other organizations in Kathmandu
also organize informal home stays with individual families
in and around the valley. Most of these are intended specifically
to provide Nepali language immersion, but at least one program
is set up for tourists just wanting to spend a weekend with
a Nepali family.
Clothing and the
body
Nepalese are innately conservative in their attitudes to clothing.
Not a few are still shell-shocked from the hang-loose styles
of the hippy era, and wary of all budget travelers as a result.
A woman is expected to dress modestly, with legs and shoulders
covered, especially in temples and monasteries: a dress or
skirt that hangs to mid-calf level is best; trousers are acceptable,
but shorts or a short skirt are offensive to many. A man should
always wear a shirt in public, and long trousers if possible
(men who wear shorts are assumed to be of a low caste). It's
equally important to look clean and well groomed - travelers
are rich, Nepalese reckon, and ought to look the part. You
can flout these traditions, but you'll only shut yourself
off from the happy encounters with locals that make traveling
in Nepal so pleasant.
Still other conventions pertain to the body. In Nepal, the
forehead is regarded as the most sacred part of the body and
the feet the most unclean. It's impolite to touch an adult
Nepali's head, and it's an insult to kick someone. (The Nepali
equivalent of tarring and feathering is to force a person
to wear a garland of shoes.) Don't put your feet on chairs
or tables, and when sitting, try not to point the soles of
your feet at anyone. On a related note, it's bad manners to
step over the legs of someone seated: in a crowded place,
Nepalese will wait for you to draw in your feet so they can
pass.
Temples and Homes
in Nepal
Major
Hindu temples or their inner sanctums are usually off-limits
to non-believers, who are technically outcastes. Respect this:
what seems like elitism is just Hindus' way of keeping a part
of their culture sacred in a country where nearly everything
is open to inspection by outsiders. In most cases, you can
see everything from outside anyway. Where you are allowed
in, be respectful, take your shoes off before entering, don't
take photos unless you've been given permission, and leave
a few rupees in the donation box. Leather is usually not allowed
in temple precincts. Don't touch offerings, nor people when
they're on their way to shrines or are in the process of worshipping.
A pedestal supporting the deity's carrier usually marks the
front of a shrine, and/or a lotus-carved stone embedded in
the ground: these define the territory of the shrine, where
it's particularly important to be reverent.
Similar sensitivity is due at Buddhist temples and monasteries.
If you're granted an audience with a lama, it's traditional
to present him with a khada (a ceremonial white scarf, usually
sold nearby). Walk around Buddhist stupas and monuments clockwise
- that is, keep the monument on your right.
If invited for a meal in a private home, bring an appropriate
gift such as fruit. Take your shoes off when entering, or
follow the example of your host. When the food is served you'll
be expected to serve yourself first, so you won't be able
to follow your host's lead. Don't take more than you can eat
- it is polite to ask for seconds. The meal is typically served
at the end of a gathering; when the eating is done, everyone
gets up and leaves. |